A new blog, by a French expat living in Prague / Un nouveau blog, par un expatrie francais vivant a Prague.Prague: too expensive, or too cheap? August 20, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Prague, Press.2 comments
Prague: too expensive, or too cheap? (CBW, 18-08-2008): Prague has been a tourism goldmine for years. The growing Czech crown has shown, more than anything else, that nothing lasts forever. Restaurant, shop, hotel and travel agency owners consider the current tourist season as the deepest crisis since the 2002 floods. CBW found that the growing currency is by far not the only factor to blame.
Poor services blamed for significant dip in tourist numbers August 6, 2008
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Prague sees significant dip in tourist numbers (Radio Prague, 05-08-2008): Prague’s reputation as a tourist hotspot has been viewed as a given for years. But now, new statistics reveal a serious slump in visitor numbers. The reasons are the strong crown and apparently poor services. Can Prague reverse this trend? Or are there serious troubles ahead?
I’m also quoting:
“(…) the problem with Prague is that we cannot give to visitors a service that corresponds to the price levels we charge. So we became a deluxe, expensive destination, but our level of service is not deluxe!” (Tomio Okamara, member of the presidium and spokesman for the Association of Tour Operators and Travel Agents of the Czech Republic)
Let’s go outside (Prague) #3 August 5, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Good, Recommended, Restaurant, Weekend.Tags: Brandýs nad Labem, Labe, Stará Boleslav
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A new one day trip outside of Prague that I would definitely recommend for the summer:
Brandýs nad Labem-Stará Boleslav, a twin-town on the River Labe
Many buses from Černý Most or Českomoravská (metro B) or from Letňany (metro C) to Brandýs n.-L. (from 15 min / 13 km / 18 Kč – as always can be less if you have a Prague transport pass). Maybe an option could be to stop first to St. Boleslav and then walk back to Brandýs n.-L. (this is what we did, but only because we missed our stop).
In Stará Boleslav do not miss the Romanesque Church of St Wenceslas where the Prince Wenceslas – patron saint of the Czech Lands – died a martyr’s death.
In Brandýs nad Labem do not miss the castle, once property of the Austro-Hungarian Emperors, nicely restored but the work is still continuing, hopefully it will include the gardens. You can visit the inside as well, but the collections are not as nice as for example the ones in Nelahozeves, mainly due to the recent history (price is 80 Kč, visit in Czech but they had a print out description of the tour in English). And I would definitely recommend the very nice Italian restaurant in the castle, “La Trattoria Toscana“, with a terrace and a view on the river.
You can finish the day by a nice walk along the river Labe that separates the two towns, but the place seems to offer many outdoors activities, including biking, boat trips and horseback riding…
Again, this list will continue to expand as we try new locations, or receive new tips. So feel free to share yours!
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Let’s go outside (Prague) #2 July 30, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Good, Recommended, Weekend.Tags: Benátky nad Jizerou, Dvořák, Nelahozeves, Smetana, Toy museum, Tycho Brahe
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Here are some additional one day trips outside of Prague that I would definitely recommend for the summer:
Nelahozeves castle, Dvořák’s birth house but also the new marina for a boat tour (or just a beer by the river)
Train from Masarykovo nádraží to Nelahozeves-zámek (direction Kralupy n. Vltavou, 33 min / 32 km / 46 Kč)
There is a great restaurant in the castle, we were nicely surprised (and of course try the Lobkowicz wine!). For the visit, we took the long tour but I’d recommend the visit of the second floor only – first one was not that interesting (I took it in Czech – way cheaper - and payed a small extra 60,- CZK to have a print out description of the tour).
Benátky nad Jizerou, the castle and the toy museum
Bus from Černý Most (metro B) to Benátky nad Jizerou (25 min / 31 km / 38 Kč)
Small and pleasant town, strangely litteraly meaning “Venice on Jizera“… Nice castle on the hill that at one time belonged to the Emperor Rudolf II, and hosted the famous astronomer Tycho Brahe, and much later the musician Bedřich Smetana. I do recommend the toy museum - maybe more a private collection than a museum though - but with some great pieces – children (and grown up) will love it! For the food, we went to a pleasant restaurant (downer part though, you need to walk 10 min. pass the castle walls opposite from the city gate, and walk down the park), but our first attempt there the waiting time was 2 hours! Hopefully beacause this is a popular place for a Sunday lunch… Finally, I’d recommend the nice cukrárna on the square (upper town) for a typical Czech desert. My advice: take some cash with you since there is no ATM in the upper part of the town…
The list will continue to expand as we try new locations, or receive new tips!
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Tesco will offer ‘English service’ July 25, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Prague, Press, Retail.1 comment so far
Tesco will offer ‘English service’ (Prague Monitor – Hospodářské noviny)
Tesco customers in the Czech Republic are soon to enjoy some of the services common in the UK, including shopping for groceries online with home delivery, and Tesco-issued credit cards.
Czech souvenirs July 2, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Gifts, Prague, Recommended.Tags: Crystalex, Jiří Pelcl, Vicenza
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Traditional question from anyone coming to visit you in Prague: what should they buy as a souvenir?
Czech crystal, jewelries, puppets, wooden toys, Easter eggs, spa wafers, beer or Becherova? The list is not short, but are these items really something you would recommend to a friend or family? And if yes, where would you send them to find the desired souvenir? Difficult question…
Our favorite tip nowadays, since we actually have purchased some of these items ourselves and use them on a daily basis, is to buy Bohemian crystal glasses. Not the tacky/touristy ones, but instead the Vicenza drinking set (Crystalex) by Jiří Pelcl, for which he was awarded the National Design Prize in 2006. Great design, elegant modern/traditional mix, affordable and useful (less than 500, Kc for the set of 6 glasses). These can be purchased in several places in Prague, sometimes in museum gift shops. One nice address though (we’ll review it soon in a separate post) is:
Modernista
Celetná 12, Praha 1 – Staré Město
tel: 224 241 300
e-mail: modernista@modernista.cz
What is your typical recommendation for a Czech souvenir (why, and where to find it)?
Prague Zoo July 1, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Babies, Pets, Prague, Recommended, Weekend.1 comment so far
Keeping up with the theme of cool things to do around Prague, another place I would recommend to visit during the sunny days to come (hopefully) is the Prague Zoo.
The new buildings are well thought (and contrast with the oldest ones, fortunately to be rebuilt soon), including my favorite: the Indonesian jungle, with the twilight zone where bats are flying freely. Another cool attraction: the lift that links the two parts of the zoo and offers a beautiful panorama of Prague (15,- Kč). Very fun!
But it’s also worth checking the gorillas, lemurs, giraffes, tigers, etc…
U Trojského zámku 3/120, 171 00 Praha 7
phone: 296 112 111
e-mail: zoopraha@zoopraha.czTo get there: Bus 112 from Nádraží Holešovice (metro C) to the terminus (Botanicka Zahrada) – there is a free zoo bus during the summer too – or walk from the Stromovka park to Troja using the pedestrian bridge over the island.
Entrance fees: 150,- Kč for an adult is not cheap, and the annual ticket could be worth purchasing at 500,- Kč . Note that there are some discounts for families.
Opening hours. It seems that they also offer night guided tours during the summer, but we haven’t tried that yet.
Let’s go outside (Prague) June 30, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Biking, Hiking, Recommended, Restaurant, Weekend.Tags: Dobříš, Jevany, Karel Gott Museum, Louňovice, Okoř
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Sometimes one only needs to travel 30 kilometers from the center of Prague to feel like being in a completely different country, with nice(r) people and a totally different approach to service and prices…
Yesterday we went for a walk in the Jevany area, just a few kilometers from Prague, right after Říčany (south-east). Beautiful place with nice paths in a protected forest along lakes and ponds, a nice restaurant, and even some swimming for the daring ones (not me).
Really the perfect place to spend a sunny Sunday afternoon, hiking, biking… or swimming (again, not for me)!
Louňovice & Jevany
To get there: If you don’t have a car, the easiest is to get from metro station Depo Hostivař on to the Bus 381/382/387 to Louňovice Na hrázi II (21 km, around 35 minutes, and 26,-Kč or 14,- Kč if you already have a Prague transport pass) or further to Jevany.
The restaurant where we stopped to have some nice food for a very reasonable price, smile included: U henců.cz – Nejlepší restaurace v okolí Louňovic
The protected area: Voděradské bučiny
And finally, for the fans, this is also the place where you can find: Gottland, the Karel Gott Museum :)
Other 1-day trips outside of Prague that I would definitely recommend for the summer:
Bus from Vítězné náměstí (Dejvická, metro A)
Lunch/dinner/even sleep at the pension & restaurant
Dobříš, the castle and French park, Karel Čapek’s house
Bus from Na Knížecí (Anděl, metro B)
There is a good restaurant in the castle
If you have any others to share, please let us know!
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Prague culture threatened? May 7, 2008
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What would be the future of a city not offering any original and varied cultural events, exhibitions, festivals, etc? And what would be the point of this blog if we could not review or share our experiences in attending such events as citizens of this city?
CITIZENS’ MOTION: PRAGUE MUST PROTECT CULTURE
We the undersigned citizens of Prague turn to you with apprehension regarding the future general conditions of the City in which we live and work and which receives a share of our taxes, because we fear a liquidation of cultural life not only in the City’s centre but in general. Aware of the fact that it is the cultural organisations that have a major urban-forming character, we submit the following motions for the City Assembly to consider (more).
For the French speakers, it even made the French national news today: Menaces sur la vie culturelle pragoise (Le Monde, 05/05/08).
Splurge! March 31, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Hotel, Recommended, Restaurant, Spa, Weekend.Tags: Kokořín, Liběchov, Mělník
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If you are looking for something special for a surprise/romantic mini-break not far from Prague, I would strongly recommend you to visit the Rezidence Liběchov, 8 km from Mělník and only 30-45 minutes drive from Prague. We spent there two great weekends in the past year, enjoying both ‘romantic’ and ‘anti-stress’ weekend packages.
Great hotel, rebuilt in the spirit of the 30s, beautiful rooms, great wellness area, a very recommended restaurant, and of course a great service – the word actually does mean something there. You pay for it, that’s true (see room prices and weekend packages), but everything is quiet, calm, intimate, and full of little touches that make the stay so special: fresh flowers in the room, flower petals on the bed, candles, fresh fruit or cheese plates… And somehow you do feel at home, smartly dressed for the 5 course gourmet dinner, or simply walking to the wellness center in bath robe and slippers. Spending 2 hours with your other half in the wellness center (so far the best I tried in the Czech Republic, much nicer than Pupp’s) and enjoying the whirlpool, saunas, massages… it’s really like a place out of time.
Rezidence Liběchov
Liběchov 121, 277 21 Liběchov, Czech Republic (map)
Tel. 00420 315 650 000
Fax 00420 315 650 009, 315 697 982
recepce@rezidence-libechov.cz
If the Rezidence does not get a (truly deserved though) 10/10 is because of the ugly power station built in the valley on the other side of the river that somehow spoils the view in the West direction. Hopefully the view in the East direction is great (ask for a room with THIS view) and is the start of a beautiful region to explore: the Kokořínsko protected area, with its forests and unusual landscapes, traditional farms, and the so romantic Kokořín castle…
Anyway, I am pretty sure that we will visit the Rezidence a 3rd time. The question is when :)
Buying a property in the Czech Republic March 18, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Real-estate.add a comment
While writing the previous post, I found this article:
How to buy a house in the Czech Republic in Twenty four (Easy?) Steps
Land registry office in Prague March 18, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Good, Land registry, Prague.2 comments
Having to deal with Administration is usually difficult, and being a non-Czech speaking foreigner in Prague makes it most of the times (always?) impossible. But there is one official institution that really seemed to me to be completely different than others: the Land Registry office in Prague.
I had to go there a few times when dealing with my apartment purchase and now reconstruction (it’s kind of mandatory to validate the ownership – see for example this article). I was usually there right after the opening time (8 am) and it never took me long to get the document I was looking for (usually less than 30 minutes for the whole process). They have a ticket system to queue, and even though all is in Czech, I could found out easily what to do, where to queue, and where to go buy the 100 CZK stamps needed. Surprinsigly a very efficient place, in a new building, with nice people ready to help - so it must be true, there is hope! 
Katastrální úřad pro hlavní město Prahu
Pod sídlištěm 9/1800, 18214 Praha 8 (map - subway: Kobylisy, line C)
Tel: 284041111 / Fax: 284042022 / e-mail: kp.praha@cuzk.cz
The office also has an on-line Land Registry database (in Czech only) where to look for who is owning what in the Czech Republic. This does not have any legal value though, it is for information purposes only. In the case an official document is needed (usually a “List vlastnictvi“), you need to go to the office above. Note that the maximum validty of that document is 3 month.
To search for a specific address in the on-line Land Registry database:
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select in the left side menu “Informace z KN“: “Parcela” = parcel, “Budova” = building, “Jednotka” = unit (e.g. BUDOVA)
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choose the city “Obec” (e.g. PRAHA)
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choose the cadastral territory “Část obce” (eg. ZIZKOV)
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choose the building number “Číslo budovy” (usually a number which is on the official address, preceding the street number)
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finally click on the “Vyhledat” button to get the details. Voila!
Buying a Prague public transport pass January 8, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Could be better, Prague, Press, Transports.Tags: bus, metro, public transports, train, tramway
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I just spent 45 minutes this morning queuing to purchase my new public transport card… I cannot say that this is the most effective system (and I’ll pass on the friendliness of the selling person – or better said lack off – who was doing other things at the same time – such as recounting her bank notes – which slowed down the process even more), but it could easily be improved since most of the people in the queue are usually tourists or foreigners who don’t have to stand there and could be buying their single use tickets:
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at the vending machines,
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or go to a Relay or any other Trafika-style shops if they don’t have cash or change,
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or even send an SMS (see how to – in Czech…) using the newly introduced system.
But all this would be possible only if the instructions were clearly indicated, in English at least, and not have the only “Ticket” sign in the area above the little booth. I also still don’t get why the vending machines cannot offer the purchase of periodic passes, and why they don’t accept bank notes or credit cards yet…
Here are two articles found on the subject:
Customer service changes still in transit: Prague transit operator Dopravní podnik hl.m. Prahy (DP) says it wants to make changes in its system to be more customer friendly, but trying to find out exactly what they envision is about as difficult as trying to read a tram route change sign that is printed only in Czech. (Czech Business Weekly, December 17, 2007)
Metro should work on reducing lines for tickets: Did anyone mention having a better system to issue monthly or quarterly passes? The lines go on forever, and just as your turn comes one of the TWO windows will close and the clerk will not return. I am certain they have my photo posted so that when they see me, one window will close. (Czech Business Weekly, January 7, 2007)
New year, new resolutions… and new tariffs as well. When most of the other cities of Europe are trying to cut down the traffic in the city centers or even re-introduce tramways, it’s a bit sad to see that Prague goes this way, encouraging drivers and not the public transport system…
For (some) information, routes and time tables, see the newly redesigned Dopravní podnik hl. m. Prahy (DPP) website.
The customer is always wrong January 7, 2008
Posted by larchiviste in Press.add a comment
An article about Customer Service in the Czech Republic from the Prague Post. A few months old now (October 31, 2007), still so true… but there is hope!
The customer is always wrong: Communist approach lingers in new service economy and differing definitions persist.
If this sounded familiar, here is another post on another blog for you:
Upholsterer? December 19, 2007
Posted by larchiviste in Prague, Recommended, Upholstery.Tags: antique, cabinet making, furniture, upholstery
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Last good review for today, here is a great contact in the case you would need like us to renovate an old armchair:
Calounictvi Hybrant Petr, Frezarska 279/8, Praha 412-Modrany 143 00 (776 04 66 45)
Upholstery is then Čalounictví in Czech (I had to look for the word, both in English and Czech…), and Mr. Hybrant really performed a miracle in rebuilding our chair. Just look at the before/after galleries of the different works, it’s really impressive. The pictures are added as the work is progressing, so you can keep an eye on what is happening. We only bought the fabric and he took care of finding a cabinet maker and then took care of the upholstery. Not a quick process I must admit, but the result is amazing and you can really see that he loves what he does.
A good dentist December 19, 2007
Posted by larchiviste in Dentist, Prague, Recommended.Tags: dentist
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Keeping with the good resolutions, here is our new dentist in Prague 3:
MUDr. Radoslav Lacina, Lucemburska 1610/9, Praha 3 (222 726 006)
I only had a check up there, but I felt like going to my own dentist in France: professional, clean and modern environment/equipment, and which is usually non-existent in Czech Republic: a real discussion doctor/patient on what is the situation, what is required, what will happen and why… Also, he offers the possibility to contact him over the weekend: I could write him an email if my wisdom teeth would start being too painful before the extraction. And he performed dental surgery on my wife to remove a painful nerve on a Sunday 8pm the day before our vacations (and only charged 500 Kc for the weekend intervention).
Any other feedback or experience?
Dry cleaning in Flora December 19, 2007
Posted by larchiviste in Dry cleaning, Prague, Recommended.Tags: dry cleaning, laundry
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Maybe because of the holiday season, I have decided not to add any bad experience before the New Year (but feel free to do so!).
So instead of talking of Bel & Blanc in Palac Flora and why I can’t go there anymore (ok, here is a hint: physical repulsion) or why I would need a negative scale to rate the customer service there, I will recommend the dry cleaning place where I am going exclusively for the last few months:
It’s only 200 meters from Flora, prices are cheaper than in B&B, and you get for free smiles, politness, the ladies working there do recognize me and appreciate my efforts to speak some Czech, agree to get paid later when I forget my wallet, etc. In short: they are really nice people (and for the first time since I live here in Prague I am planning to bring them chocolates for the holidays – a Christmas miracle?).
The only drawback: the opening hours. From 7:30 to 18:30 Monday-Friday, it took some time to get used to it. But for a smile or some nice words it’s really worth it
Construction/reconstruction work December 17, 2007
Posted by larchiviste in Architect, Interior design, Prague, Stay away.Tags: architect, interior design
3 comments
Planning a construction/reconstruction work in Prague? Well, I strongly advise you NOT TO contact Atelier Slavicek s.r.o. (architects and interior design).
Looks good on paper, first meetings really interesting, but you might just end up like us loosing time and money. It took them 3 weeks to “study” our apartment and finally provide a proposal 3 times our budget, before telling us that they are not interested anymore to cooperate with us, and in addition charge us (a lot…) for a document that I would be personally ashamed to show to any client (the proposal actually includes an “inspiration” part with the pictures that we provided them for suggestion). I really thought it was a joke…
There are probably many other architects in Prague – but I am scared it might just be the same everywhere (specially in the current real estate boom situation). I just read that:
“Surprisingly, we could not find a single contractor who would build the garage or the fence for us at a reasonable price. The job, they said, was just too small. “Maybe in the spring,” they said. Our last option was to build it piecemeal.” (Prague Monitor, December 11, 2007)
My advise for next time, maybe to try to get a student in architecture that would do something much better for much less…
Any experience or advise on the topic?
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